Home cosmetology >>>> Pigmentation - bleaching agents

Pigmentation - bleaching agents.

The tint of our skin and hair, as well as the color of our eyes, is determined by the special substances they contain - pigments. They are called melanins . The main task of the melanins in the skin is to darken it to protect the skin from burns and overexposure to sunlight. Even the whitest skin contains a certain amount of melanin. And its almost complete absence is observed only in albinos.

The most powerful flow of ultraviolet rays we receive with the arrival of spring and summer, as well as at certain times during the day when the sun is "at its zenith." Although sunlight is considered a source of life and health, one should still take into account the fact that excess sunlight can do a lot of harm to our body. Ultraviolet radiation, which accounts for approximately 5% of the total solar flux, is nothing more than radiation of a specific spectrum. It has the highest biological activity and penetrating power and is hazardous to health radiation. It is from ultraviolet radiation that the ozone layer in the atmosphere protects us, and it is the residual ultraviolet light that has passed through the ozone layer that is absorbed by the cells of the outer layer of the skin (epidermis), which protects us from its harmful effects. Melanocytes under the influence of ultraviolet radiation begin to produce the above-mentioned melanin from tyrosine (amino acid). Keratinocytes begin to increase their division, due to which the epidermis thickens and its throughput decreases. This is why tanned skin gets rougher.

The second reason for the synthesis of melanin is in our body. This is our endocrine system, which, under the influence of neurotransmitters (catecholamines) on the hypothalamus, triggers the production of MSH (melanostimulating hormone). If the normal course of this process is disturbed, painful disturbances in the production of melanin appear - melanosis, vitiligo, lentigo, senile spots.

Tanned skin looks attractive to many, but an even skin tone depends on the distribution of melanin in the outer epidermal layer, and there are cases when the skin is colored unevenly (in this case, they talk about age spots - chloasma), or pointwise (and this case is called freckles - ephelids). Abundant freckles and spots often irritate their owners, so there are several approaches to solving this problem. First, it is necessary to determine the cause of these defects. If it is of the nature of a disease, then cosmetic means are powerless and the very cause of the disease must be eliminated. If the result of impaired pigmentationlies on the surface of the problem (associated with the features of the structure of the skin), then cosmetic techniques will be effective. Secondly, you should decide on the set of products that will be used for cosmetic manipulations, since not all types of skin (taking into account its condition) are suitable for certain cosmetic procedures.

Modern cosmetology offers several types of products for different purposes for skin whitening:

Skin whitening products
Skin exfoliators
Skin camouflage products
Means for coloring leather

Skin whitening products have this effect due to certain chemicals they contain. Consider these substances:

Hydroquinoneand derivatives from it (for example: methyl, benzyl esters of hydroquinone, hydroquinone glycoside - Arbutin) are substances with a powerful whitening effect, the purpose of which is to slow down the synthesis of melanin by melanocytes. Applied in the form of solutions (1 to 4%) or creams once a day (preferably at night) for one to two months. The higher the percentage of these substances, the stronger the effect on melanocytes, but the higher the risk of damage to skin cells from their use. Substances of this group have the most effective whitening effect, but at the same time they destroy skin cells, so there is a huge risk of getting a dermatological disease using them. Means with hydroquinone cannot be used for more than two years, since long-term use of hydroquinone causes preconditions for the development of ochronosis - a skin disease, accompanied by its darkening. Cosmetic preparations containing these substances have side effects (for example: traumatic dermatitis, allergic dermatitis, hypopigmentation of adjacent skin areas, etc.).
Topical retinoids (adapalene (Differin), tretinoin (Retinol, Retin-A, Atralin, Renova, Avita, Aberella, Stieva-A), isotretinoin) - affect the synthesis of melanin, reducing its amount, and renew the layers of the epithelium. These drugs are produced in the form of masks, gels, creams, and peeling agents and are prescribed for a long period of up to six months once a day, for example, at night. They have side effects associated with irritation, peeling, inflammation of the skin surface and are categorically contraindicated for pregnant and lactating women. Such drugs should be prescribed by a doctor.
Azelaic acid (Skinoren cream) - reduces the production of melanin and weakens the active synthesis of the enzyme tyrosinase. It occasionally causes mild irritation.
Means containing ascorbic acid (for example: sodium ascorbyl-2-phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl-2-phosphate) suppress the production of melanin and are used in combination with other drugs. Apply once or twice a day at a concentration of 2-10% for six months. These products can irritate the skin.
Alpha-hydroxy acids (ANA), beta-hydroxy acids and polyhydroxy acids (Glycolic, Thioglycolic, Phytic, Salicylic, Apple, Lactic, Kojic) reduce the activity of tyrosinase and accelerate the exfoliation of the epithelial layer. Used in peeling procedures. Almost all of these acids are of natural origin. Most often, salicylic, malic, lactic, glycolic and kojic acids are used, choosing a concentration depending on the depth of peeling.
Sulfide complexes containing Zinc, Copper, Iron.
Herbal bleaching agents include all plants that contain:
1. Phenols:
  - Phenol (pine needles and cones);
  - Hydroquinone (Badan leaves, extract of the Madder family (Harounoside), Strawberry tree, Bearberry extract (Arbutin), Shlemnik, Paper mulberries, Erica gray, Licorice, Cranberry leaves);
  - Thymol (essential oils of Thyme and Thyme);
  - Anethol (Anise, Fennel and Badian oils);
  - Eugenol (essential oils of Clove, essential oils of Ceylon cinnamon, essential oils of Basil Eugenol and Pimenta);
  - Salicin (Methyl salicylate - essential oil of Gaulteria);
  - Carvacrol (essential oils of Thyme and Marjoram);
  - Vanillin (vanilla pods and bark);
  - Cinnamaldehyde (essential oils of Ceylon cinnamon and Chinese cinnamon);
2. Phenolic acids and derivatives of simple phenolcarboxylic acids:
  - Phenolic acids (Dandelion officinalis);
  - Derivatives of Salicylic acid (Bearberry ordinary, Gaulteria);
  - Derivatives of Gallic, Coffee, Orthocoumarinic, Cinnamic Acid (Bearberry);
3. Ascorbic acids (Parsley, Blackberry, Onion, Cucumber);
4. Organic acids (Blackberry, White Water Lily, Horseradish, Lemon, Cucumber, Kalina vulgaris);
5. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory whitening ingredients:
6. Glabridin (Licorice root extract, Licorice);
7. Whitening mono-agents that are not used in modern cosmetology for skin due to their high toxicity and low practical value are hydropyrite, sodium peroxide, perhydrol, hydrogen peroxide, mercury-containing substances.
8. As for the independent use of home-made bleaching products, you need to know: if you are a professional pharmacist and have experience in preparing medicines, you will be able to correctly form the drug, but if you do not have experience in preparing drugs, then there is a great risk of non-compliance concentration of the whitening component, which will lead, at best, to skin irritation, at worst - to allergies , serious injury to the skin surface, burns, the development of dermatitis of a different nature and many other dangerous consequences. Be careful.
9. The cosmetic industry makes it possible to purchase many whitening products for self-use at home. These are various creams, gels, masks:
  1. ELURE (night cream): used for lightening the skin, it is effective and does not harm even sensitive skin. Recommended for those whose skin does not tolerate hydroquinone derivatives
  2. ILLYSSIA (Pearl line): a set of creams and masks to reduce the production of melanin. Contains no toxic components.
  3. ACHROMIN : used to lighten age spots and remove freckles. Contains hydroquinone and is not recommended for thin, delicate or allergy-prone skin.
  4. PURE Light SPF 30: Contains Hyaluronic Acid, Glucosamine, Niacinamide, which prevents the transfer of melanosomes. Ascorbyl glycoside lightens pigmentation.
  5. CHOLLEY Clearing Gel-Cream SPF 15: Suitable for all skin types. Removes age spots with azelaicomoniamide, zinc sulfate and includes sun filters.
  6. KATLIN : a whitening cream containing kojic acid and chemical filters against UVA and UVB rays.
  7. GUAM : a whitening cream containing kojic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid, acetic acid and alpha hydroxy acid. Suitable for delicate facial skin. Can be used to remove age spots.
  8. NOREVA Melano-Expert Iklen: high concentration whitening cream. It is used for aging skin to remove age spots of different etiology. The composition includes Rucinol (reduces the production of melanin), Centaridin (reduces the dendrites of melanocytes) and Sophora (inhibits alpha-MSH-melanostimulating hormone).
  9. CHRISTINA Hyperpigmentation Corrector Peelosophy: cream for lightening pigmentation. It contains glycolic acid and allantoin. Convenient for removing pigmentation during pregnancy, age spots.